Home KATJA TRAVELS SKIING IN THE DOLOMITES

SKIING IN THE DOLOMITES

21/03/2019
SKIING IN THE DOLOMITES

I spent a week skiing around in the Italian Dolomites at the beginning of March. I have to tell you, it was the best skiing week ever (not that there were many of them in my life haha)! Sure, we have skiing areas here in Slovenia, and they are great. But they are not nearly as big as what I had a chance to experience in the Dolomites.

Everything is so big, you can practically get lost without a map, or Bergfex app. We had a hotel in one of the small charming towns in that area and were driving to ski areas each day. We optioned for different areas, so we were skiing on different slopes each day. What is great about skiing in the Dolomites is that you can buy one big ski pass (Dolomiti superski) which allows you unlimited skiing experience in all ski areas that are covered by this single card (more then 1200 kilometres of slopes, heaven right?). A six day ski pass will cost you 304 euros in high season, or 61 euros for one day only. But in this case, you rather just buy a ski pass for only one area in which you are planning to ski since it is a few euros cheaper. I have heard a lot of comments that ski passes are way too expensive. Sure, they are not the cheapest thing but if you look at what you get for the money it is worth it. My favourite area was Val Gardena (I skied in Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Cortina d`Ampezzo and Kronplatz). Since we had a plan to ski in different resorts anyway, we didn`t bother much with the location of the hotel. We wanted something for good value for money and we wanted it to be somewhere, where we could easily reach all the areas. We stayed in a charming super small town San Pietro, which is between 40 minutes (Van Gardena) and almost 2 hours (Cortina) car ride from all the resorts. Snow and slopes (except Cortina) were still in good conditions but I guess this really depends on the winter. Since I was skiing, and my brother was snowboarding I can tell that all the slopes and all the resorts that we tried are more than suitable for any of these two activities.

V začetku marca sem en teden preživela na čudovitih belih strminah italijanskih Dolomitov in povem vam, najboljša izkušnja smučanja kadarkoli (saj ne, da so bile to moje več ali manj prve smučarske počitnice). Seveda imamo prav super smučišča tu pri nas, vendar bi bilo škoda trditi, da v tujini ta smučišča niso večja, modernejša in imajo bogatejšo ponudbo. V Dolomitih je vse tako zelo veliko, smučišča so ogromna in brez mape bi se človek zlahka izgubil. Ali Bergfex aplikacije. Stanovala sem v manjšem hotelčku v majhnem očarljivem mestecu kar tako nekje sredi Dolomitov in sva se z bratom potem vsak dan posebej vozila na različna smučišča. Kar je bilo super, saj sva imela v planu smučati na različnih delih. Kar je pri Dolomitih super, je to, da lahko preprosto kupiš večdnevno smučarsko karto, ki velja za vseh 12 smučarskih področij po Dolomitih, imenuje se Dolomiti superski. Karta vam omogoča neomejeno smučanje znotraj teh zajetih področij, več kot 1200 kilometrov prog, kar so svojevrstna nebesa kajne. Takšna šestdnevna karta v najvišji sezoni stane 304 evre, oziroma 61 evrov za en dan. Vendar se enodnevne preprosto ne splača vzeti, saj je par evrov ceneje če potem raje kupite posamezno smučarsko karto za posamezno smučišče. Veliko komentarjev sem slišala, da so cene previsoke in je vse skupaj zelo drago. Po svoje je res drago, vendar če primerjamo (ne mislim nič slabšalnega) kaj dobimo za to ceno je po mojem mnenju vredno denarja. Sploh če primerjamo ponudbo v Sloveniji in cene smučišč v Sloveniji. Moje daleč najljubše področje je bila Val Gardena (smučala pa sem poleg Val Gardene še v Alta Badii, Cortini d`Ampezzo in na Kronplatzu). Ravno zato, ker je bil plan smučati na različnih področjih se nisem preveč ubadala z samo lokacijo hotela. Pomembno mi je bilo le, da bo vredno mojega denarja in da bo relativno blizu vsem smučiščem, ki sem jih želela obiskati. Kot že rečeno, sva bivala v majhnem mestecu San Pietro, ki je oddaljen med 40 minutami (Val Gardena) in skoraj dvema urami (Cortina) od posameznih smučišč. Glede na čas v katerem sem smučala so bili tako sneg kot tudi proge v odličnem stanju (razen Cortine za obisk katere sem izbrala napačen dan), ampak to je tako ali tako bolj odvisno od zime in ostalih dejavnikov. Sama sem smučala, brat pa je bordal tako da lahko zagotovim, da so vse proge primerne za oboje. Res je bilo super.

KRONPLATZ

The area with most cable cars I`ve ever seen! Kronplatz (which stands for the whole region and not just the mountain) has really long slopes which are not so difficult to ski. Just a few of them are black (toughest). I really loved all the blue lines which are still steep, but you can really enjoy the ride. I`m not a big fan of black slopes. Not that I`m scared or anything but I just like to ski »carefree« if you know what I mean. The peak of the area is on 2275 metres. If you want to take a break of skiing and you want to see some cool stuff I warmly recommend the Messner Mountain Museum on the top of Kronplatz and Museum of Mountain Photography which is also on the top. A very unusual place for museums but trust me, worth visiting. Specially the Messner Museum is an architecture wonder and will offer you some amazing views on the surroundings mountains. The museum itself is about alpinism and history of climbing on some of the highest mountains on the world. Kronplatz to me was the easiest area to ski, easy skiing on a sunny day. Kronplatz has 119 kilometres of skiing slopes.

One day ski pass for Kronplatz only, costs 57 euros.

Smučišče z največ gondolami, kar sem jih kdaj videla haha. Ne vem če sem preštela pet sedežnic, vse ostalo samo gondole. Saj gondole so super, gondole pomenijo dolge proge. Kronplatz ime ne označuje le hriba oziroma gore, ampak označuje celotno področje (turistično področje). Meni so na Kronplatzu všeč dolge, predvsem nezahtevne proge. Seveda imajo nekaj črnih, zahtevnih, vendar imajo pa veliko plavih in rdečih, ki so še vedno strme vendar v vožnji zares uživaš. Saj ne da črnih pog ne bi bila zmožna presmučati ali bi mi predstavljale kakšno težavo. Le raje smučam sproščeno brez skrbi tehnično zahtevnih strmin. Vrh smučišča je na 2275 metrih nadmorske višine. Če si med smučanjem zaželite odmor in vas takšne stvari vsaj malo zanimajo toplo priporočam obisk dveh muzejev na vrhu Kronplatza. Ja vem, zanimiv izbor kraja za muzej. Messner mountain Museum in pa Museum of Mountain Photography. Zlasti Messnerjev muzej (svetovno znani alpinist Reinhold Messner) je arhitekturno zelo zanimiva zgradba, ki vam ob obisku ponuja čudovite razglede na okoliške gore. Miuzej je posvečen zgodovini alpinizma in plezanja na najvišje vrhove našega sveta. Kronplatz je bil s svojimi 119 kilometri prog zame osebno najlažje oziroma najmanj zahtevno smučišče izmed vseh, sproščeno smučanje.

Enodnevna smučarska karta za Kronplatz stane 57 evrov v najvišji sezoni.

VAL GARDENA

My favourite resort out of all four! Famous Val Gardena with Saslong slope from downhill world cup ski race. I have no idea why I have fallen fort his ski resort so much but here I found everything what I needed for more than perfect day on the slopes. Steep and not so steep slopes, breath-taking views, comfortable cable cars and other lifts and the area itself is so big that there was absolutely no crowd anywhere. You can park your car on one of many parking places just under the lifts so there is no long walks or bus rides to reach the cable car or lift which is going to take you up high. Val Gardena is a paradise for everyone. It doesn`t matter if you are a beginner or a pro. Val Gardena resort has 175 kilometres of slopes of altitude between 1236 metres and 2540 metres.

One day ski pass for Val Gardena only, costs 56 euros.

Meni najljubše področje izmed vseh. Slavna Val Gardena z še slavnejšo smučarsko progo svetovnega smuk pokala, Saslong. Po pravici povedano ne vem čisto natančno zakaj se mi je ravno Val Gardena najbolj dopadla izmed vseh ampak nekako mi je bilo tukaj smučati najlepše. Imela sem se kar sem si lahko zaželela za čudovit smučarski dan, strmine in položnejše proge, gondole in udobne sedežnice, čudovite razglede in pa tudi ljudje se na tako velikem smučišču čisto porazgubijo in ni nikjer nobene gneče. Tudi glede parkiranja samega avta ni nobenega problema, saj je ob vznožjih gondol in ostalih žičniških naprav veliko parkirišč. Le par korakov in smo na snegu. Val Gardena ima res poseben čar in nudi užitek vsakomur, tako začetnikom kakor tudi tistim, ki mejijo na profesionalce. Pohvali se lahko z 175 kilometri prog, ki so raztegnjene med 1236 in 2540 metri nadmorske višine.  

Enodnevna smučarska karta za Val Gardeno stane 56 evrov v najvišji sezoni.

ALTA BADIA

Another much known resort because of the world cup ski races. Just like Val Gardena, or any other ski resort in Dolomites for that matter, Alta Badia offers breath-taking views during your ski activities. I found slopes a little bit more steeper than in Val Gardena, or maybe this is just because I chose different side to ski. A 130 kilometres of slopes up to the height of 2700 meters offer a fun day. Also here, parking is not a problem since the place is provided with a lot of parking spots. I really like how you can always take a cable car back down to the valley if you are filling too tired for skiing all the way down to the car. I usually stop skiing when I feel that my muscles are too sore for safe skiing.

One day ski pass for Alta Badia only, costs 56 euros.

Še eno ime znano iz svetovnega smučarskega pokala. Prav tako kot Val Gardena, ali katero koli drugo smučišče v Dolomitih če smo že pri tem, ponuja čudovit razgled na gore in doline. Sami se mi je zdelo, da so proge tukaj nekoliko strmejše kakor v Val Gardeni, mogoče se mi je pa to le zdelo zaradi kraja kjer sem smučala (nekako je skoraj nemogoče v enem dnevu presmučati celotno področje). 130 kilometrov prog sega vse do višine 2700 metrov. Prav tako tudi tukaj lahko parkirate čisto pod gondolo ali žičnico. Pri vseh smučiščih mi je bilo super, da če si na koncu dneva preutrujen, da bi lahko prevozil progo vse do doline se lahko preprosto vsedeš na gondolo in se odpelješ. Sama navadno preneham smučati, ko začutim da mi mišice v nogah ne dopuščajo več varne smuke.

Enodnevna smučarska karta za Alta Badio stane 56 evrov v najvišji sezoni.

CORTINA D`AMPEZZO

Or Queen of the Dolomites. My least favourite day and ski experience. It has nothing to do with Cortina itself because I believe it is fabulous on a good, sunny day. But we were unlucky and went skiing to Cortina on the worst day in the week. It was foggy and wet. No views, no enjoyable slopes, half of the ski area was closed due to bad weather and the whole thing was just kind of wrong. I want to go back on a good day to see this place in its full glory. Cortina will host a world ski cup in 2021 and they are working on some new slopes and lifts for that so I really need to go back. Another reason to go back is to take that lift all the way up to Tofana, a breath-taking view point on over 3000 metres. It supposed to be amazing.

One day ski pass for Cortina d`Ampezzo only, costs 56 euros.

Ali kraljica Dolomitov kot ji pravijo drugače. Moja najslabša smučarska izkušnja v celem tednu, ki pa nima nič z Cortino samo in verjamem, da je naravnost čudovito na lep, sončen, ne moker dan. Sem pač imela smolo, da je ravno tisti dan, ko sem smučala v Cortini vreme bilo obupno, megleno, sneg je bil razmočen, polovica smučišča je bila zaradi slabih razmer zaprta in deležna nisem bila prav nobenega razgleda. Vse je šlo narobe. Moram nazaj in upam, da bo takrat lepo vreme. Cortina bo leta 2021 gostila svetovno smučarsko prvenstvo in v ta namen pripravljajo nove proge in ostalo, dodaten razlog da se vrnem. Žal je bila tudi žičnica do vrha Tofane na več kot 3000 metrih zaprta. Baje, da je razgled naravnost osupljiv.

Enodnevna smučarska karta za Cortino d`Ampezzo stane 56 evrov v najvišji sezoni.

Would I go back? Yes! Anytime. I really have fallen in love with skiing, which I though was not possible. I always thought that skiing was to complicated, you need too much equipment, it cost too much (which it kind of does haha, but it really depends what equipment you want and all that, when it comes to ski pass prices you can`t do much). I did ski when I was a kid and than suddenly stopped 22 years ago, or even more. But I never really knew how to ski properly. I was always that shy scared girl afraid of steep slopes and big hills. But that two years ago I decided why not, I kind of want to ski again and try it. So, I bought everything that I needed and started skiing again. I`m not saying that I am a pro now but I got good! Haha! And at this point I`m more than proud of myself that I managed to ski all the way down of two world cup slopes, Saslong and Gran Risa. I`m already planning my next ski vacations next season. Any good recommendations?

Bi šla nazaj? Seveda, takoj. Nekako sem se zaljubila v smučanje, kar si pa nisem mislila, da je mogoče. Vedno sem mislila, da je smučanje zakomplicirano, potrebuješ en kup opreme, pa še stane veliko (kar je dejansko nekako res, je pa veliko odvisno od tega kakšno opremo si omislimo, pri ceni smučarskih kart ne moremo kaj dosti privarčevati). Smučala sem ko sem bila majhna in potem sem nekje 22 let nazaj ta šport opustila, mogoče še več. Pravzaprav nikoli nisem znala prav dobro smučati, bila sem tista bojazljiva punčka, ki na veliko pluži po smučišču. Dve leti pa sem se odločila, da mogoče pa vseeno bi in si tako kupila vso potrebno opremo ter začela smučati. Daleč od tega, da sem profesionalec ampak dobro mi gre. In na tej točki sem sama nase zelo ponosna, da sem presmučala strmini kot sta Saslong in Gran Risa iz svetovnega pokala. Trenutno pa že planiram svoje naslednje smučarske počitnice v naslednji sezoni. Kakšna ideja kam naj grem?

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