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SARAJEVO PHOTO DIARY AND GUIDE

14/03/2018
SARAJEVO PHOTO DIARY AND GUIDE

I know this post is super late. Sorry for that … Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. I have fallen for this city the second I stepped on the street in front of our hotel. The culture, the vibe, people and of course food and coffee. A mixture of perfection and of all the things I really like. The city that is lively and loud during evenings turn into a peaceful colourful creation on the early Sunday morning. Adorable old coffee shops which you have a feeling that have been there for years and years are greeting you on every corner. Hundreds of stores selling accessories needed to prepare a perfect Bosnian coffee. I had no idea that this city would get me this much, I have always wanted to visit it and now I want to go back as soon as possible. The warmth of Bosnian people and their pride of the culture is overwhelming. When I told my grandma I’m going to visit this city she was all excited, telling me a bunch of things I had to see and visit. She has many memories of this city since she was exiled here with her family as a child during the war.When we started talking about where to go for the summer and we decided for the island Hvar it was clear to me that there is no way we would not visit Sarajevo on our way back home. So after almost two weeks on Hvar, a couple of days in Dubrovnik we drove through Mostar to Sarajevo. We made a short stop in Mostar since it is a very famous city, especially for its bridge. It was way too hot to really explore it but it was just enough for us to feel the nature of Bosnian people. We stayed in Mostar for maybe about two hours to look around and eat burek (famous Bosnian dish made of pastry and a filing which can be cheese, meat, or something else). City was way to crowded at this time of the year for my personal taste.

Sarajevo is easily reachable by car from Slovenia, although you can simply fly there, but me personally, I love road trips and could drive in a car for days. And if you are from the other part of the world or Sarajevo is far away from you, then its probably the best to fly. In comparison to other European prices, Sarajevo is quite »cheap«. I mean ice cream for 0,50 EUR!? To me, that’s what heaven looks like. Sarajevo, or at least the old part of the city is not so big and it can be easily discovered by foot.

Since our hotel was in the heart of Sarajevo we didn’t need to use public transportation at all. We parked our car at the reserved parking of our hotel and left it there for two days. Another thing I adore about this city is that they still have tramways. Tramways are the reason why I also love Zagreb that much (and now I love Sarajevo partly because of them as well), and I still don’t get it why they removed them from Ljubljana all those years ago.

So about Sarajevo …

Where to stay?

We stayed in the Old Town Hotel and I had to pinpoint out that I wouldnt have it any other way. The hotel was on a perfect spot for discovering the old town of Sarajevo, a minute of walk away from Baščaršija, probably the most famous square in whole Bosnia. When you step out of the hotel you are basically on the streets of Sarajevo and you can feel the immediate vibe and smell of local cuisine, which by the way is delicious! Real Bosnian coffee for breakfast with freshly made eggs and everything else that you might like having for breakfast. The hotel is not big and it feels homey. The staff is also nice, ready to help you any minute at any time of the day. They also offer a free parking on site. Rooms are big enough and confortable with everything you might need for a perfect stay. Can we just talk about the huge shower? I am not kidding but the shower itself was bigger than the rest of the bathroom.

What and Where to eat?

The food! The food! I mean I’m a foodie person and I love good food in the company of good people. And lets just say that Bosnian people know their thing. First of all Bosnian grill (čevapčiči, ražnjiči, meat, meat, meat), their kajmak, burek, and so much more. Be sure to do some exercise in the meantime while visiting this city. The most famous place to eat is Čevabdžinica Željo, the crowded and lively place, smelling and oh so delicious. Come hungry! We just ordered a bunch of different kinds of meat and just put it in the middle of the table and ate. Be preapered to wait for a table, or to share a table. The place is packed at any time of the day. Second place I would definitely recommend is Čevabdžinica Mrkva, another place very similar to Željo. This one is also crowded but they accept credit cards (Željo doesn’t). Just a few steps ahead of Mrkva you can find a place called Buregdžinica Oklagija where you can buy burek by kilos. One kilo of burek for less than 5 euros. We had to buy 2 kilos for our way back home (we ate it all before we even reached the border). Basically locals say that anywhere you go to grab something to eat you are going to be satisfied. Most lively and packed is around Barščaršija, the main and the most famous place in Sarajevo. Sadly we only had two days and one can only eat just that much.

Coffee and stuff

If you like black, strong coffee you are in the right place. Bosnian coffee or kafa in their language is a must when visiting. I love coffee and I had real high expectations before trying it for the first time. And I wasn’t disappointed at all! It is delicious, just how I like it, strong and black. I drank my first real Bosnian coffee in Čajdžinica Džirlo. A charming and authentic place with more than a welcoming owner. It is usually full but they will always find a seat for you. It is a place where you can feel the culture and people. He does not only bring you coffee, but he also educates you on how to properly drink it. Who thought there is a little science behind. The place I definitely recommend and can not wait to visit again. Another spot I visited was Promenada cafe where we took some different kinds of baklavas to go and ate it in our hotel since it got super hot outside. Last morning there we treated ourselves with some baklava and coffee in Baklava Shop at Baščaršija. Drinking strong coffee and enjoying supper sweet baklava when watching people on Sunday morning really is an experience. We also had coffee in some other places around Baščaršija but those were my favourite and would recommend them anytime.

What to do in Sarajevo.

The most famous place in Sarajevo is Baščaršija, heart of the city. A big square which is the centre of everything. You can start your journey there. Pay attention to locals who own little shops offering hand made products and products famous for Sarajevo and Bosnia. Just a little bit ahead, if you cross the road you are going to find Čajdžinico Džirlo (mentioned before) and than you can just walk around. Be sure to walk to the end of Ferhadija street. Wide walking street full of shops, bars and restaurants. Take a walk by the river and stop on Latin bridge, historically famous bridge (the northern end of the bridge was site of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand of Austria by Gavrilo Princip in 1914, which became an event that provoked a series of events that lead to world war I). Visit museums, Sarajevo has a few of them. Unfortunately I didn’t have a time to visit the Museum of crimes against humanity and genocide. Visit the city hall or Vijećnica. A beautiful building with even more beautiful inside. They had a Turkish exhibition in the time of the visit.

Useful information my way

  • Give locals a chance. Don’t be a stranger to them and let them to tell you their story. Bosnian people are very open one and love to share their piece of the story. They are going to tell you some amazing things if you let them.
  • Don’t go to fancy restaurants. Real stories and people are around Baščaršija where you can find amazing food and coffee, where you eat on crowded streets sharing a table with strangers.
  • Cash! Bring cash! I had quite some problems using credit cards since many of shops, restaurants, bars don’t accept them.
  • I always say this but get up early! The cities are always the most beautiful in the early morning light.
  • I would personally rather visit Sarajevo in any other time than summer. It was way to hot!
  • If you have a chance to book a hotel in the old town, so you have everything on walking distance.
  • Try Bosnian coffee without sugar before “killing” it with it.

I’m already thinking when to go back to visit this lovely city again. I’m also flirting with a winter visit to Jahorina since I heard that Bosnia offers some great ski experiences. Will see about that, but it is definitely under consideration. The city left a mark on me. It got me with hospitality, architecture, interesting people, delicious food and especially coffee and with some local shopping (luckily I was dry on cash while visiting).

If you have a chance than visit!

SLO

Prvo. Res se opravičujem, da tole objavljam šele sedaj. Sarajevo. V mesto sem se zaljubila isto sekundo, ko sem iz hotela stopila na živahno ulico. Kultura, ljudje, ozračje in seveda hrana in kava. Kombinacija vseh stvari, ki so mi všeč. Mesto, ki je ob večerih živahno in glasno, se ob zgodnjih jutrih spremeni v očarljivo, pisano in mirno. Zlasti ob nedeljah. Na vsakem vogalu te pozdravljajo majhne kavarne, za katere človek dobi občutek, da tukaj stojijo že stoletja. Polno majhnih trgovinic, ki prodajajo lokalne izdelke, potrebne za pripavo njihove posebne kave. Sploh se nisem zavedala, da me bo mesto tako očaralo. Že dolgo sem si ga želela obiskati, in zdaj ko sem ga, želim nazaj in to čim prej. Toplina in prijaznost tamkajšnjih ljudi je nalezljiva. Ko sem babici povedala, da bom obiskala Sarajevo je bila čisto navdušena in mi je vsa vesela pripovedovala stvari o mestu in kaj vse moram obiskati ter videti. Veliko spominov jo veže na to mesto, kamor so bili z družino izgnani med vojno.

Ko smo se začeli pogovarjati o poletju in ko smo se odločili, da obiščemo otok Hvar in mesto Dubrovnik, sem seveda morala vztrajati pri temu, da napoti nazaj domov obiščemo Sarajevo. Tako smo se po dveh tednih na otoku Hvar in nekaj dneh v mestu Dubrovnik, odpeljali mimo Mostarja proti Sarajevu. V Mostarju smo naredili postanek, saj mesto slovi kot eno najbolj znanih v Bosni. Bil je čisto prevroč dan in temparature so se že zgodaj popoldne gibale okoli 43 stopinj. Ravno zaradi vročine smo mesto obiskali zelo na hitro, ravno toliko, da smo pojedli prvi pravi burek, si ogledali znameniti most in se sprehodili po kamnitih ulicah. Tudi ljudi je bilo za moj okus, preveč. Turistična sezona pač.

Sarajevo je iz Slovenije zelo lahko dosegljivo z avtom. Seveda se na pot lahko odpravite tudi z letalom (npr iz Ljubljane), vendar osebno raje potujem z avtom. Če mesto primerjamo z drugimi evropskimi prestolnicami je mesto dokaj poceni. Sladoled za 50 centov!? Mislim, to zame predstavlja nebesa. Staro mestno jedro ki je turistično najbolj zanimivo, ni preveliko in ga lahko večinoma prehodimo peš.

Ker je bil naš hotel v samem srcu starega mesta javnega prevoza nismo potrebovali in uporabljali, zato vam glede tega ne morem ravno svetovati. Avto smo parkirali na rezerviranem hotelskem mestu in ga tam pustili stati dva dni. Še ena stvar, ki mi je bila v Sarajevu res všeč, so tramvaji. Tramvaji dajo mestu poseben čar, zaradi katerih obožujem tudi mesto Zagreb in nikakor ne morem razumeti, zakaj so tramvaje iz Ljubljane odstranili.

Torej, o Sarajevu…

Kje spati?

Mi smo bivali v hotelu Old Town in če se kadarkoli vrnem v Sarajevo bom izbrala isti hotel. Hotel je na odlični lokaciji za raziskovanje mesta, dve minuti hoje stran od Baščaršije, ki je verjetno najbolj znan trg v celi Bosni. Vhodna vrata v hotel so praktično na eni izmed glavnih ulic v mestu, tako da takoj začutiš utrip mesta in vonj po hrani. Za zajtrk ti postrežejo pravo bosansko kavo, spečejo sveža jajca in zraven ponujajo vse, kar bi si lahko zaželel za zajtrk. Hotel sam ni pretirano velik zato se v njem človek počuti domače. Osebje v hotelu je zelo prijazno in receptor ti kadarkoli priskoči na pomoč. Prav tako nudijo brezplačno parkiranje za tiste, ki pridejo z avtomobilom. Sobe so lepo opremljene in dovolj velike, da sem se počutila udobno. In kopalnice? Prisežem, da je bila tuš kabina večja od preostanka kopalnice. Noro.

Kaj in kje jesti?

Hrana, hrana, hrana in še enkrat hrana. Nam Slovencem je bosanska hrana zelo dobro poznana. Od mesa na žaru, čevapčičev, ražnjičev, zrezkov, pa potem kajmak, burek in baklava. Bolje, da v svoje dni v Sarajevu vključite še nekaj telovadbe. Najbolj znan kraj kje jesti avtentično hrano je Čevabdžinica Željo, vedno je polno in živahno. To mesto morate obiskati lačni in zelo verjetno bo potrebno na prosto mizo malo počakati oziroma si jo boste delili še z nekom. Mi smo naročili različne vrste mesa, vse skupaj postavili na sredo mize in jedli. Gostilna je vedno polna, ne glede na uro ali dan. Drugi lokal, ki ga prav tako priporočam je čevabdžinica Mrkva, ki je zelo podobna Želju. Za plačilo sprejemajo tudi kreditne kartice. Le nekaj metrov naprej od Mrkve najdemo Buregdžinico Oklagijo, kjer lahko kupimo kilogram bureka za vsega skupaj 9 mark, torej nekaj manj kot 5 evrov. Pred odhodom iz mesta smo za na pot kupili dva kilograma, ki pa nista zdržala niti do meje s Hrvaško. Pravijo, da kjerkoli se odločiš v Sarajevu nekaj pojesti, bo hrana odlična. Najbolj živahno in dišeče je v okolici Baščaršije. Na žalost smo bili v Sarajevu le dva dni in nekdo lahko poje le toliko.

Kava in ostalo

Če imate radi pravo črno in močno kavo ste na pravem mestu. Bosanska kava ali kafa po njihovo je obveza pri obisku Sarajeva. Ker imam zelo rada kavo sem imela pred prvo skodelico zares visoka pričakovanja in moram reči, da nisem bila niti malo razočarana. Sama sem jo pila brez dodanega sladkorja. Svojo prvo pravo bosansko kavo smem spila v Čajdžinici Džirlo, avtentičen in pristen lokalček z zelo prijetnim in prijaznim gospodom, ki ga ima v lasti. Običajno je polno, a vedno se bo našlo mesto. V lokalu zares začutiš kulturo in ljudi. Ni samo, da ti prinesejo kavo, ampak ti tudi z ljubeznijo razložijo kako jo pravilno piti in kako v njej uživati. Le kdo bi si mislil, da je za pitjem kave prava mala umetnost. Komaj čakam, da Džirla ponovno obiščem. Naslednja lokacija, ki jo priporočam, je Promenada cafe na Ferhadiji. Tukaj smo se zagledali v vitrino z baklavami in nekaj različnih vrst vzeli za seboj v hotel. Zadnje jutro smo se s kavo in baklavami razvajali v Baklava Shop na Beščaršiji. Posebno doživetje je, ko na nedeljsko jutro med opazovanjem mimoidočih srkaš grenko kavo in uživaš v sladki baklavi. Kavo smo pili v kar nekaj kavarnah, ki jih je v Sarajevu na pretek, vendar so se mi omenjene tri najbolj vtistnile v posmin.

Kaj početi v Sarajevu?

Najbolj znana lokacija v mestu je Baščaršija, srce mesta. Velik trg in središče vsega dogajanja v mestu. Je zelo dobra izhodiščna točka za ogled mesta. Vzemite si čas in si oglejte trgovinice z lokalnimi ali ročno izdelanimim izdelki. Le malce naprej, če prečkate cesto boste našli Čajdžinico Džirlo. Sprehodite se skozi ulico Ferhadija. Glavna ulica polna trgovin, restavracij in barov. Ob reki boste prišli do zodovinsko pomembnega latinskega mostu (na severni strani mostu so ubili Franca Ferdinanda, ki je bil eden ključnih dogodkov, da je kasneje prišlo do prve svetovne vojne). Obiščite muzeje, Sarajevo jih ima kar nekaj. Meni je žal zmanjkalo časa, da bi obiskala katerega izmed njih. Najbolj fotogeničen kraj je zagotovo mestna hiša oziroma Vijećnica. Ravno v času našega obiska so v njej imeli turško razstavo.

Pomembne informacije po moje

  • Dajte priložnost prebivalcem, da vam povedo svojo zgodbo. Domačini so zelo odprti, topli in prijazni ter vam bodo z veseljem povedali svoj del zgodbe.
  • Ne hodite v fine restavracije. Pravo doživetje je na ulici, med ljudmi.
  • Gotovina! S sabo imejte gotovino! Sama sem imela kar nekaj težav s kreditnimi karticami, saj jih v večini primerov ne sprejemajo.
  • Vem, da to vedno govorim, toda vstanite zgodaj in raziskujte mesto zgodaj v jutranji svetlobi.
  • Osebno bi Sarajevo raje obiskala v katerem koli drugem letnem času kot poleti. Prevroče!
  • Če le imate možnost, potem rezervirajte hotel v starem delu mesta, saj boste tako imeli vse blizu in boste lahko raziskovali peš.
  • Bosansko kavo obvezno poskusite brez sladkorja.

Komaj sem se dodobra vrnila pa že razmišljam, kdaj bom spet obiskala to čudovito mesto. Prav tako se spogledujem z zimskim obiskom, ki bi ga združila z smučanjem na Jahorini. Sem slišala, da je smuka tam odlična. Bomo videli. Mesto je definitivno pustilo na meni pečat. Prijaznost, kultura, arhitektura, ljudje, hrana in še posebej kava ter lokalni nakupi.

Če le imate možnost, potem Sarajevo zagotovo obiščite.

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