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HVAR PHOTO DIARY AND GUIDE

20/06/2018
HVAR PHOTO DIARY AND GUIDE

Hvar. This island was on my bucket list for as long as I remember. Funny. How I travelled to places that are on the other side of the planet but yet haven’t managed to visit places that are relatively close to me and I wanted to see.  I’ve been dreaming about Hvar since I was little and my friend used to tell me about this place when they went for summer holidays with their parents there. And I loved Dalmatian coast since I visited Split and the island Brač for the first time way back. And last year I finally got a chance to spend almost two weeks in this small piece of paradise.

Hvar is one of many islands on the Croatian coast and it is covered mostly in pine forests, vineyards, olive trees and lavender. It is a bit rocky but it is also green. It has beautiful beaches and hidden spots. I am not going to write statistics about this island because you can find all the information on Wikipedia, I’m here to tell you about my thoughts and other things from my perspective.

We have visited Hvar with a car. We did a little road trip from Hvar to Dubrovnik and than to Sarajevo. From Slovenia to split its approximately 470 kilometres if you use the highway. We decided to do this trip old school and we used the road that was the only road to get down there before the highway called Jadranska magistrala. If you use that road it is around 450 kilometres but the drive is way slower. We decided for that road mainly because we wanted to enjoy the beautiful coastal views and to be able to stop anywhere we wanted to stop. We stopped in Šibenik for an ice cream, another town that was on my wish list. I really love these seaside towns around Croatia’s coastline. So beautiful and magical. Because we knew that the ferries from split are quite expensive we decided to go to island Hvar from Drvenik, which is a city that is about 90 kilometres further from Split. The price of the ferry is almost three times cheaper. True, you have to do extra mileage, but since we went to Dubrovnik right after, it was more than great for us to choose that option. Another catch is that a ferry from Drvenik leaves you in Sučuraj which is the town that is on the opposite side of the island than Stari Grad (where ferry from Split leaves you) and where “the touristic part of the island” is. That means you have to drive another 50 kilometres across the island on the only road that is very narrow and well it does not feel very safe. But it is an adventure on its own. We were glad we didn’t have a fancy or big car. We were staying in Jelsa, a town that is around 25 kilometres away from the City of Hvar. If I could choose again, I would start in Hvar or in Stari Grad instead of Jelsa. Jelsa is beautiful and everything, it has beaches, markets, restaurants, bars and all that but it is lacking those evening summer vibes that I’m used to when I’m on the seaside. We were driving pretty much everyday to Stari Grad or Hvar to have ice cream, walk around a bit and enjoy those perfect summer nights.

One day we decided to visit Split. You can easily reach split with a ferry or katamaran from different cities on Hvar. The ride is between hour and a half and two hours long

Where to sleep?

As I said before we were staying in Jelsa in a private apartment that had everything, a small kitchen, terrace and private bathroom. We also had a parking on site. As said, I would prefer staying in Stari Grad or Hvar but I didn’t know that by that time. Jelsa is a beautiful small town but it gets kind of empty and quiet at evenings. It has restaurants and bars (I’ll write them below) but that’s pretty much it. It is more a family area, at least that is the feeling I got. But it is small enough to walk around and have everything on a reach of a few minute walk.

What and where to eat?

On Hvar we didn’t eat out every day since we had a kitchen and I personally like to cook. We also didn’t want to spend a fortune in restaurants. Sometimes it is way more intimate and fun to eat on your terrace a home cooked meal and just enjoy a glass of wine in a good company. I am going to do a list of restaurants where we ate to make everything more clear.

My absolute favourite is Black Pepper restaurant in the city of Hvar. A vibrant restaurant with top notch service and delicious food. I had tuna steak there and it was the best tuna steak I have ever had in my life. They have a beautiful terrace and some of the tables are on the passage on stairs. I always appreciate a restaurant that puts an effort on the interior, service and presentation. Food is equally important. And this one had everything. Can we just talk about the rose rakia for a second. I personally don’t like rakia (a strong alcoholic drink) because it burns me too much and I’m a bit of a soft person on alcohol department. But this one! This one! So good. They really make an effort to make you feel welcome. Try something from a local wine list. I had rose from Tomić, could drink a bottle by myself.

The second restaurant I’d like to pinpoint is Dalmatino restaurant. We decided to pay a visit since so many good revives and recommendations. I have to say that all good words around this place are true. The service and food, both on a level. I’m addicted to sea food and I always try to eat something from the sea when I’m…well, on the seaside. And shrimps here were divine. Here I ordered a glass of white wine of their choice and forgot what I got. Ops.

Flying pig. This is a burger place in Jelsa. I would say the best burger place but can’t really say that since this is the only burger I had. It is a place you spot in a second. They have a terrace right in the centre of Jelsa. You might have to wait for a table or reserve it in advance. I had one of the best burgers I had in my life. Unfortunately I forgot which one I had. They also have wide selection of beers that are not part of the large production but are more “home made”. Cash only.

Another restaurant in Jelsa, Spizza Restaurant. We came here on a lazy evening when we didn’t feel like driving somewhere and we decided to grab a bite in this restaurant. It has a nice location by the sea overlooking the port and city centre. I had pizza and it was yummy. Pizza with seafood. Told you, it has to be sea food.

Coffee and stuff

If there was a coffee involved it was on our terrace. We tend to spend the morning on beaches, so we just woke up, dress up, drink coffee on our terrace along with breakfast and then go to the beach. We usually went to the beach around 7 am. I know, crazy but so worth it. So the only time we had coffee was one morning in Jelsa, we just chose a random coffee shop in the centre and had coffee. In the city of Hvar we went to Hvar Park Café since we saw a bunch of photos of little tables on the stairs. We actually had coffee and breakfast here. A fruit bowl was so good. About ice cream … Well I have no idea where I had it. I had at least one a day anywhere that I found suitable. They are pretty much the same.

What to do?

Well besides obvious, beach time. You can discover the island weather with a car or with public transportation. Or you can easily rent a scooter. The towns on the island are well connected with busses. For beach time I would definitely recommend to drive blindly and to search for beaches that are not in main towns. Specially that dusty road that goes from Sveta Nedilja and than connects to the main road for Hvar. We found there the most beautiful beach there is. We just woke up early and went there to relax for a couple of hours before crowds came. Those little beaches can get crowded real quick since they are not that big. Another beautiful beach is just a little bit ahead on the main road (where the dusty road connects). You can spot it in a second since a lot of cars are parked alongside the main road. You have to walk a few minutes down the hill for both of these two beaches. If you are planning to spend a day there bring an umbrella or something to protect you from the sun. We were told that on the side of Ivan Dolac and Zavala are beautiful beaches as well but somehow we didn’t manage to get to them.

Another thing you can do is visit the towns on the island. Each one of them is unique and charming in its own way. Specially in the evenings when everything gets lively and people tend to spend time outside. I fell in love with Stari Grad and Hvar. Both beautiful, offering you a unique island experience. If you have a chance visit one of the local wineries, so a local wine degustation and buy a bottle or two as a reminder when back home. Vrboska is a romantic small town just a little bit ahead from Jelsa. Try to catch the sunset hours there because the colours are magical. Perfect for an evening stroll.

Hvar as the main city on the island has the most to offer. The widest variety of restaurants, bars, coffee shops and night life. Can’t say much about night life since we didn’t party at all. But the walk through the city is experience of its own. It is a beautiful city where you can see how history was involved in architecture and everything here. Rich people come here to park their yachts to enjoy themselves and to be seen. Do not miss the fortress Fortica on the hill overlooking the city of Hvar. There is no better view than this. We went twice. In the morning where we could enjoy the place all for yourself and once in the evening for the sunset. The sunset here is crowded. A lot of people come up here to admire the view in the golden shades.

And Split. You can always visit Split from any bigger town on Hvar. An hour, hour and a half long ride and you will reach this beautiful city. Spend a day walking around, admiring everything here. It is one hell of a beautiful city. I’m sure it will steal your heart right away. Split is the second largest city in Croatia and it is the biggest one in that part of the Country. Split is full of historical buildings, full of historical vibe and full of amazingly beautiful buildings. Here are just few of the things worth visiting and that stole my breath right away. I didn’t even care it was like 40 degrees. Diocletian’s Palace is an ancient palace built for the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD, that today forms about half the old town of Split, Croatia(yes, I copied that sentence haha). The Cathedral of Saint Domniusis another  must on the list. Splitska riva is a promenade full of restaurants, bars and the modern city vibe. A long lively and vibrant promenade that simply can’t be missed, literally. Don’t miss the statue of the 10th century Croatian leader, Gregory of Nin. You have to rub his toe and make a wish, supposing it will come true.If you are into museums there are few worth visiting like City museum of Split, Etnographic museum and Archeologial museum. The most interesting and historican things can be found in the inner side of palace walls. We had breakfast in BEPA! Delicious food and coffee, perfect start of the day. And later that day we grabbed something to drink on the riva and right before we went back to hvar we took takeaway in Sexy Cow, a place itself is a enough of a big reason to visit Split. Haha.

Useful information my way

  • Discover! Don’t be sorry for the time spent in a car discovering this beautiful island. Beaches worth visiting are hidden.
  • Don’t stick to only one place the whole time. Go for a coffee to a City of Hvar, dinner in Stari Grad, beach in Jelsa.
  • Bring Cash! I was surprised how many bars are cash only!
  • Your car will be dusty and dirty haha.
  • Sunsets at the Fortica (Fortress) are packed! Be there early if you want a good spot.
  • Be prepared for a crowd on a beach. Better to bring one extra towel to put down for some extra “personal space”. Umbrella is a must too if you don’t like that really hot 2pm sun.
  • Eat as much seafood as possible.

Till next time, Hvar.

SLO

Hvar. Ta otok je bil na mojem spisku želja odkar pomnim. Prav smešno mi je, kako sem obiskala že marsikateri konec sveta, ki je bistveno dlje kot Hvar ampak nekako sem do otoka uspela priti šele pred kratkim. O Hvaru sem sanjala že od majhnega, ko so prijateljice z družinami odhajale na morje v južno dalmacijo in mi potem pripovedovale kako zelo lepo je. Sama sem se pa tako ali tako zaljubila v Dalmacijo, ko sem prvič obiskala Split in Brač kot majhna. Tako pa sem končno prišla do Hvara in ga lani obiskala za skoraj dva tedna.

Hvar je eden izmed večjih otokov na južni hrvaški obali, otok je večinoma poraščen z mediteranskim rastjem, sivko, vinogradi in oljkami. Res da je sam otok precej kamnit ampak vseeno je na njem dovoj zelenja. Najlepše plaže so malce skrite in se je potrebno potruditi, da pridemo do njih. Sicer pa, ne bom vam pisala statistike o otoku in dejstva o njem, to si pa ja ahko sami preberete na Wikipediji ali kje drugje. Tukaj sem bolj zato, da vam povem o mojih občutkih, izkušnjah, dogodivščinah iz mojega zornega kota.

Hvar smo obiskali z avtom. Dopust smo si zamislili kot roadtrip, prvo Hvar, potem Dubrovnik in mimo Sarajeva domov. “Mimo” haha. Če uporabite avtocesto je Slovenija od Splita oddaljena približo 470 kilometrov. Sami smo se na pot podali po tako imenovani jadranski magistrali, ki pot sicer časovno podaljša vendar je veliko lepša, ponuja nekaj čudovitih razgledov in več kot primernih točk za ustavljanje na poti v manjših, ali večjih mestih. Po kilometrini je sama cesta krajša (okoli 450 kilometrov), vendar kot sem rekla, je veliko bolj zamudna. Sami smo želeli izkusiti utrip hrvaške obale in čudovitih mestec na poti. Se voziti z odprtimi okni in se ustavljati kjerkoli se nam je zahotelo. Tako smo se na primer ustavili v Šibeniku na sladoledu in limonadi. Še eno mesto, ki je bilo na mojem seznamu želja. Ostal mi je še Zardar. Ker smo vedeli, da trajekt iz Splita do otoka Hvar stane kar precej, in ker smo kasneje pot tako ali tako nadaljevali južneje, smo za trajekt do otoka raje izbrali relacijo Drvenik-Hvar. Drvenik je mestece, ki leži nekje 90 kilometrov še južneje od Splita, cena trajekta pe je nekje trikrat nižja. Res je dalje, ampak v našem primeru se je splačalo, pa še vožnja s samim trajektom je občutno krajša. Slaba stran, oziroma niti ne nujno “slaba” stran te relacije je, da vas bo trajekt iz Drvenika odložil v mestu Sučuraj, ki je na popolnoma drugem koncu otoka kot mesto Hvar. Kar pomeni, da je potrebno prevoziti skoraj cel otok po dolžini (okoli 50 kilometrov), da boste prišli do “turistične” strain otoka. Cesta, ki poteka čez otok je ozka, na nekaterih delih zavita in domačini jo uporabljajo za dirkališče. Še dobro, da nismo imeli velikega in finega avta haha. Sami smo imeli apartma v mestu Jelsa, mesto, ki je od samega mesta Hvar oddaljeno nekje 25 kilometrov. Če bi lahko izbirala ponovno bi poiskala apartma v mestu Hvar ali Stari Grad. Saj ne pravim, Jelsa je čudovito mestece, ki ponuja vse kar boste za prijeten dopust potrebovali toda meni osebno je manjkalo tistega poletnega vrveža in dogajanja, ki sem ga navajena ob poletnih večerih na morju. Praktično skoraj vsak dan smo se vozili v mesto Hvar ali Stari Grad, da smo se sprehajali okoli, uživali v pijači in sladoledu.

Za en dan smo se odločili obiskati Split, ki je s katamaranom ali trajektom dosegljiv iz katerega koli večjega mesta na tej strani otoka. Sama vožnja traja nekje med uro in pol ter dvemi urami v eno smer.

Kje spati?

Kot sem že omenila smo spali v Jelsi v privatni nastanitvi, apartmaju, ki je imel vse, teraso kuhinjo, kopalnico… In seveda tudi parkirno mesto pred samo hišo. Jelsa je lepo mestece, ki pa je zvečer bolj mirno. Je takšna bolj primerna za družine. Vsaj takšen občutek sem sama dobila. Je pa res, da je z svojo majhnostjo primerna, da ni daleč do plaže, trgovine ali kakšne restavracije ali bara za tiste dni, ko želimo biti bolj ležerne narave.

Kaj in kje jesti?

Na Hvaru nismo jedli veliko zunaj saj smo v apartmaju imeli kuhinjo in smo si kuhali sami. Sama zelo rada kuham in na morju mi je to neko posebno doživetje, kuhati in jesti na terasi. Filane paprika pa te zadeve, verjetno me razumete haha. Poleg tega pa nismo želeli zapravljati pravega melega bogastva v restavracijah. Včash je nekaj najlepšega skuhati večerjo, se vsesti na terasu in uživati v dobri družbi ob kozarcu vina. Spodaj pa naštevam nekaj restavracij v katerih smo jedli.

Zagotovo moja najljubše restavracija je Black Pepper v centru mesta Hvar. Zares super, prijetna in živahna restavracija z super postrežbo in noro dobro hrano. Sama sem jedla tuna stejk z zelišči, in bil je najboljši tuna stejk kar sem jih kdaj jedla. Imajo čudovito teraso in nekaj miz je kar na prehodu na stopnicah, na ulici. Vedno cenim restavracijo, ki da nekaj na prezentacijo, notranjost in splošno vzdušje. Seveda je enakovredno pomembna hrana. In ta restavracija ima vse. In rakija narejena iz vrtnic. Najboljša stvar! Sicer sama nikakor ne maram rakije, ali katere druge močne žgane pijače, toda ta je bila odlična. Osebje se potrudi, da se pri njih počutiš dobrodošel in, da si zanje kot gost pomemben. Zraven poskusite nekaj iz lokalne vinske karte, sama sem imela vino vinarja Tomić, lahko bi sama izpraznila buteljko.

Naslednja restavracija, ki bi jo želela izpostaviti je Dalmatino. Zanjo smo se odločili predvsem na podlagi številnih predlogov in pozitivnih odzivov. In moram reči, da so vse dobre besede okoli te restavracije resnične. Popolnoma vse je na nivoju, hrana je odlična. Ker sama obožujem morsko hrano in ker, ko si na morju je pač morska hrana najboljše izbira sem seveda tokrat izbrala škampe. Tudi tukaj sem naročila kozarec lokalnega vina, vendar sem pozabila natančno katerega.

Flying Pig! Burger lokal v Jelsi. Saj bi rekla, da je to najboljši hamburger, ki sem ga jedla na otoku, pa žal ne morem, ker je bil to tudi edini hamburger, ki sem ga na tem dopustu pojedla. Lokal je takšen, da vam v Jelsi takoj pade v oči, je na promenadi in ima živahno teraso in vedno polno gostov. Verjetno boste mogli počakati na prosto mizo ali pa preprosto rezervirati vnaprej. Poleg burgerjev ponujajo tudi lokalno pivo iz manjših domačih pivovarn. Nekaj za ljubitelje burgerjev in piva. Vendar kot plačilo sprejemajo le gotovino.

Še ena restavracija v Jelsi je Spizza restavracija tik ob morju. Tukaj smo se za večerjo odločili, ker smo bili tisti dan preleni, da bi se nam ljubilo karkoli drugega. Ponujajo najrazličnejše jedi, tudi pice. Sama sem imela pico z morskimi sadeži. Saj vam pravim, vedno morajo biti morski sadeži.

Kava in ostalo

Če je bila na morju kava je bila to kava na terasi apartmaja! Jutra smo najraje preživljali na plažah na katere smo se odpravili že res zelo zgodaj in tako je pač kava padla ob rani uri na terasi. Domača, dišeča, črna brez sladkorja. Ob tistih redkih priložnostih, ko pa smo se odločili za plažo kasneje in šli na kavo v lokal, pa je bil to naključno izbran lokalček ob obali v Jelsi, je pač imel največjo skrinjo sladoleda. Tisto jutro, ko pa smo že zjutraj odšli v mesto Hvar prav z namenom iti na kavo, smo seveda zavili v Hvar Park Café, ki nas je osvojila s številnimi slikami na instagramu in številnimi priporočili. Sadna kupa in kava! Glede sladoleda, o katerem me vsi tako sprašujete, dejansko sem imela sladoled kadarkoli mi je zapasalo in sem zavila k najbližjemu ponudniku, tako da nimam pojma kje vse sem ga jedla. Haha.

Kaj početi?

Poleg očitnega, plaže? Lahko raziskujete otok po dolgem in po čez, ali z avtom ali pa javnim transportom. Ali pa preprosto najamete skuter, štirikolesnik. Mesta na otoku so zelo dobro povezana z avtobusnimi povezavami. Glede plaž pa bi vam definitivno priporočala, da se malce slepo vozite okoli, raziskujete in iščete tiste skrite kotičke. Najlepše plaže so skrite izven mest. Še posebej je zanimiva makadamska cesta, ki poteka nekako od Svete Nedelje in se potem kasneje priključi na glavno cesto proti mestu Hvar. Sami smo tako našli nam najlepšo plažo na otoku. Najraje smo se zbudili res zgodaj in bili na plaži ure predno se je nabrala zares velika gneča. Na the manjših plažah se gneča hitro nabere in postane kar malce utesnjeno. Še ena izmed čudovitih plaž je kmalu po tistem delu, kjer se makadamska cesta spoji na glavno cesto. Poti k plaži ne morete zgrešiti saj je ob cesti parkiranih polno avtomobilov. Potem se morate samo spustili po hribu navzdol. Nekje 10 minut vam bo vzela pot navzdol in nekako enkrat več pot navzgor. Če boste nameravali na plaži preživeti cel dan potem vzemite kakšen senčnik ali kaj drugega, kar vam bo dajalo sence, saj naravne sence skoraj da ni. Od drugih ljudi smo slišali, da so tudi plaže v okolici Ivan Dolaca in Zavale čudovite, vendar nam jih nekako ni uspelo obiskati.

Naslednja stvar, ki jo lahko počnete je, da se potikate po majhnih mestecih po otoku. Vsak izmed njih je očarljiv in poseben v svojem pomenu. Še posebej ob večerih, ko vse oživi, ljudje se sprehajajo iz lokalov pa se sliši glasba. Sama sem se malce zaljubila v Stari Grad in mesto Hvar. Oba sta res čudovita, ki ponujata doživetje na otoku. Lahko si vzamete čas za obisk ene izmed vinskih kleti na otoku in uživate v degustaciji. Zraven pa kupite kakšno boteljko za spomin domov. Vrboska je še eno majhno romantično mestece, le malo naprej od Jelse. Obiščite jo ob sončnem zahodu zaradi čudovitih barv.

Mesto Hvar ima kot glavno mesto na otoku za ponuditi največ. Največjo izbiro restavracij, barov, trgovin in nočnega življenja. O nočnem življenju vam ne morem povedati kaj dosti, saj nismo žurali ali se zabavali pozno v noč. Ampak večerni sprehod skozi mesto je doživetje samo zase. Bogataši, ki mesto obiščejo parkirajo svoje jahte ob promenadi, da se pokažejo, ljudje hitijo na večerjo ali pijačo, povsod je viden vrvež in živost mesta. Seveda ne smete zamuditi obiska fortice, trdnjave na vrhu hriba. Verjetno na celem otoku ni boljšega razgleda kot tale. Sami smo jo obiskali dvakrat, enkrat ob sončnem zahodu in drugič v jutranjih urah. Če se boste na fortico namenili v času sončnega zahoda bodite prirpavljeni na pravo gužvo in računajte na malo sreče, da boste prišli do kotička kjer boste lahko občudovali sončni zahod. Je pa res, da je čudovito.

In pa Split! Vedno lahko obiščete Split. Kot sem že omenila, trajekt ali katamaran vozi iz katerega koli večjega mesta na otoku. Zlahka boste preživeli dan med tavanjem in občudovanjem tega čudovitega mesta. Split je drugo največje mesto na Hrvaškem in največje v tem delu države. Polno je zgodovinskih stavb in arhitekture, oddaja tisto nekaj, kar privlači množice in posameznike da se v mesto nenadoma zaljubijo. Če omenim ali naštejem le nekaj stvari, ki se jih po mojem mnenju res ne splača spregledati. Ena izmed glavnih in najpomembnejših značilnosti je Dioklecijanova palača okoli katere je nastalo samo mesto in danes predstavlja kar polovico starega mestnega jedra. Še ena znamenitost je Splitska katedrala, ki je dih jemajoča. Ko smo v Splitu ne moremo mimo znamenite splitske rive, kjer je polno restavracij in lokalov, ki vabijo goste. Preprosto jo je nemogoče zgrešiti. Potem pa je tu še seveda ogromen kip hrvaškega voditelja iz 10. stoletja, Grgur Ninski. Pravijo, da se vam bo uresničila želja če kip podrgnete po nožnem palcu. Če vas bolj navdušujejo muzeji jih tudi Split ponuja nekaj, muzej mesta Split, Etnografski muzej in Arheološki muzej. Sicer pa, najbolj navdušujoče in nejlepše znamenitosti najdemo znotraj obzidja palače. Ko smo prišli v mesto smo se odpravili na zajtrk v lokal BEPA! Super začetek dneva, z odlično hrano in kavo. Med samim dnevom smo se vstavili na kakšnem sladoledu ali pijači, tik preden pa smo se s trajektom vrnili na otok Hvar smo obiskali Sexy Cow. Samo ta lokal sam po sebi je vreden ponovnega obiska Splita. Haha.

Pomembne informacije po moje

  • Raziskujte! Naj vam ne bo škoda časa, ki ga boste preživeli v avtu in se vozili okoli ter raziskovali. Plaže, ki so res vredne obiska so malo skrite.
  • Ne bodite ves čas le na enem mestu. Jutranja ava v mestu Hvar, večerja v Starem Gradu in čas za plaži v naprimer Jelsi.
  • Prinesti gotovino! Presenečena sem bila koliko lokalov sprejema le gotovino.
  • Avto bon a koncu prašen in umazan. Haha.
  • Sončni zahodi v fortici so zelo obiskani, bodite zgodnji če želite dobiti dobro mesto za ogled zahoda.
  • Na plaži zna nastati gneča. Boljše, da sabo vzamete dodatno brisačo za malce več osebnega prostora na plaži in pa kakšen senčnik, če ravno ne želite da vas opeče žgoče popoldansko sonce.
  • Jejte čim več morske hrane.
  • Uživajte.

Do naslednjič, Hvar!

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